Hurrungane

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasHurrunganeStoren › Associated Peaks

1.15 Vetle Skagastølstind 2340m

Vetle Skagastølstind, 2340m, lies at the southern end of the Skagastøls ridge. It is usually climbed in conjunction with a traverse of the Skagastøls ridge from Storen to Nordre Skagastølstind or vice versa. It is sometimes also climbed as part of the classic 2 day Styggedals/Skagastøls ridge traverse. There are three ridges that lead up to its summit.

Store Skagastølstind full size mapThe south ridge from Mohns skar (the saddle with Storen) is steep and involves two 25m pitches, the lower at grade IV and the upper at grade V.

The north ridge form the saddle with Midtre Skagastølstind begins with the infamous obstacle of Halls hammer, a 10m grade VII crack. This crack can be avoided on the east side with a grade IV slab, called 'Patchells sva'. After Halls hammer the north arête continues to the summit with many interesting scrambling sections, all of grade III.

The east ridge is from the saddle with Sentraltind is quite straightforward, and although relatively exposed only involves easy scrambling.

The north and south ridges take a good hour to climb while the east ridge is a short ½ hour. To reach any of the three saddles is itself a difficult task and is described in the Storen alternative routes section or on the Sentraltind page.

 

1.16 Midtre Skagastølstind 2284m

Midtre Skagastølstind, 2285m, lies in the middle of the Skagastøls ridge. It is usually climbed in conjunction with a traverse of the Skagastøls ridge from Storen to Nordre Skagastølstind or vice versa. It is sometimes also climbed as part of the classic 2 day Styggedals/Skagastøls ridge traverse. There are two ridges that lead up to it summit; the north ridge from V-skaret and the south ridge from the saddle with Vetle Skagastølstind. The north ridge from V-skaret is steep and involves 3 pitches. The first two 20m pitches from V-skarets depths are grade IV then grade III, these lead to a flat area called Berges stol. From Berges stol there is another 30m grade II pitch to the top.

The Skagastøls ridge from the west. From the left is Nordre Skagastølstind, Skagastølsnebbet, the notch of V-skaret, Midtre Skagastølstind, the step of Halls hammer, then Vetle Skagastølstind followed by Mohns skard saddle and Store Skagastølstind.
The south ridge from the saddle with Vetle Skagastølstind is exposed and dramatic. From the foot of Halls hammer the arête stretching northwards is largely level for 300m but contains many interesting scrambling sections. At the end of this level section the arête narrows yet further and is very airy for a 10 metre one section, where it is necessary to creep along. At then end of this exposed 10m section there is a small notch. On the south side of this notch is an exposed 10m grade III climb, which leads onto the arête again. From the top of this climb there is a short 25m scramble to the top.

The north and south ridges take a good hour to climb from either saddle. To reach the bottom of V-Skaret from the north involves a long grind up Nordre Skagastølstind and then an easy scramble from here over to Skagastølsnebbet and then a short easy scramble down to V-skarets depths. To reach the saddle on the north side involves extensive climbing as described above in the Storen alternative routes section above or on the Sentraltind page.

 

1.17 Skagastølsnebbet 2222m

Skagastølsnebbet, 2222m, lies towards the northern end of the Skagastøls ridge. It can be climbed on its own from Turtagrø without major problems and it also sometimes climbed in conjunction with a traverse of the Skagastøls ridge from Storen to Nordre Skagastølstind or vice versa.

The south ridge is a short 35m scramble up from the bottom of V-skaret to the summit on the south side of the peak. This takes ¼ hour

From the north there is an problem free walk up from the saddle, Nebbskar, with Nordre Skagastølstind with just one easy short scramble. From Nebbskar to the top it is ½ hour

See the Storen alternative routes section above for more details.

 

1.18 Nordre Skagastølstind 2167m

Nordre Skagastølstind, 2167m, lies at the northern end of the Skagastøls ridge. It is commonly climbed on its own from Turtagrø, and sometimes in conjunction with a traverse of the Skagastøls ridge.

The south ridge from the Nebbskar saddle with Skagastølsnebbet is an interesting walk which steepens slightly towards the top, where some easy scrambling is necessary. From the saddle to the summit it is a sort ½ hour.

From the north, Nordre Skagastølstind can be climbed from Turtagrø hotel. The route goes up Skardstølsdalen for 4 km to the Tindeklubbhytta cabin. From here it ascends the side valley to the lake at 1584 m before going up the relentless boulders of the north east ridge for 600m. From Turtagrø to the top is about 4½ hours with about 3 hours return.

See the Storen alternative routes section above for more details.