Uranos Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasUranos MassifLangeskavlstind › Alternative Routes

Langeskavlstind lies just to the north of the large Tyin lake and is very accessible in the summer, less so in the spring. Indeed, it is possible to leave Bergen or Oslo in the morning drive 4 hours, climb Langeskavlstind and return to Bergen or Oslo during the same long day during the summer months.

During the spring the road from Tyinkrysset to Tyinholmen and Fondsbu lodges is blocked by snow and the 20-odd km must either be skied each way or the vintage weasel (a large covered snowmobile) can be taken, making Langeskavlstind a three day trip. However, Fondsbu or Tyinholmen lodges are excellent bases for other 2000 metre mountains and peaks such as Galdeberget and Uranostind which are also accessible in the spring.

The profile of Langeskavlstind as seen from UranostindIn addition to the main route along the ridge as described in the main section there are a number of alternative routes. The most interesting of these is up the steep north east ridge which is very useful if you want to combine the mountain with any, or all, of the other three mountains in the massif. The other three alternative routes all come up the west flank of the ridge from starting places to the south and west.

Langeskavlstind North West Ridge Route

The route up the north west ridge of Langeskavlstind starts on the north west side of the Koldedalen lake just north of the bridge over the torrent which drains the Urdadalsvatnet lake.

It follows the marked path St.6 north for 2 km to a junction on a rise slightly to the south of the Urdadalsvatnet lake. At this junction take the marked path Ur.2 heading east and across the river. Just after the river crossing leave this path and start to head north to a small stream emerging from a marshy bowl to the south east of a steep crag which drops straight into the east shore of the lake.

Langeskavlstind full size mapGo into this grassy bowl and climb up the moraine on a rough path which leads north out of this bowl for a good ¼ hour until you reach the top of the moraine. Then head east across a moonscape to the small silty lake at the snout of the Uranosbreen glacier. Go round the south, then east, side of the lake until you reach the glaciers' edge. Rope up here and start to head up the crevassed glacier.

Keep to the centre or east of the glacier, as you head up under Langeskavlstind, as the crevasses are not so prolific here. After 2½ km you reach a glacial saddle and the transition to the Mjølkedalsbreen glacier.

Leave the glacier here to gain a flat rocky pad at the base of the ridge. There are bergschrunds here at the glaciers' edge, and much larger ones on the saddle between the glaciers. Head across the flat rocky area to the foot of the ridge and then start to ascend the steep ridge. It takes about ½ hour to climb the steep ridge where there are a number of scrambling sections, but none of them more than an easy grade III.

A foreshortened view straight up the north west ridge of LangeskavlstindReturn by the main south ridge to the first saddle and then head down to the snout of the Uranosbreen glacier as described as one of the alternatives below. Allow 6-8 hours from Koldedalen return.

Rusteggi Ridge Route

The two alternative routes up the west flanks to meet the preferred route along the main ridge are connected. The more southerly of these route goes up a ridge called Rusteggi.

To get to the base of this ridge either follow the marked path Ur.2 from Fondsbu lodge or Ur.5 from Tyinholmen lodge for about 1½ hours until the paths meet by the base of this ridge. From here head north going to the west of the ridge for ¼ km to a small saddle. then head north east climbing up into a saddle on the main ridge. Then follow the ridge up north for ½ hour to the top 1632m.

Here there is a choice of two routes. Either ascend a broad ridge of turf and stones north east for another easy ½ hour to gain the main ridge and the preferred route as described below. Alternatively do not ascend any more but continue north onto a broad 2 km long shelf with a pair of tarns at the north end below the snout of the Uranosbreen glacier.

Head along this pleasant shelf to the tarns and passing between them into moraine. Just beyond the tarns you meet the alternative route coming up from Koldedalen cabin and going to the saddle 1½ km to the north east on the main ridge. Follow this route up to the saddle at 1752 metres and then follow the preferred route as described below. Allow 7-9 hours return from either lodge.

Glacier-Free Route

The glacier-free route up from Koldedalen starts just north of the bridge over the torrent, as the route up Mjølkedalsbreen to the north ridge describe above does. Follow this route for 2 hours to the edge of the glacier, where the routes separate by a silty tarn at 1506m. Go across moraine and silt to the north of this lake jumping a steam which appears from under the glacier and may be quite large.

Continue east along the snout of the glacier passing north of another tarn to start ascending a gentle but stony slope up towards a clearly visible saddle on the south ridge of Langeskavlstind. As you ascend up to this saddle the gradient increases substantially for ¼ hour up a turf and stony slope. At the saddle, which is at 1752 metres, you meet the preferred route as described below and this is followed to the summit. Allow 6-8 hours return to Koldedalen.