Rauddalen Area

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasRauddalen AreaStore Rauddalstind › Alternative Routes

There are two easy routes up Store Rauddalstind; up the east ridge from the saddle with Austre Rauddalstind and up the west ridge from the saddle with Vestre Rauddalstind. The route up the east ridge is the route I have described in the main section as the preferred route.

Store Rauddalstind is the highest and almost central point on a long ridge which contains three mountains, here seen from the northThe route up the west ridge from the saddle with Vestre Rauddalstind is described here. There are also two other routes up which cross glaciers on the north side and are much more involved. Both of these routes are also described briefly in this section. There is no route up the steep slabs and vegetation of the south flank.

West Saddle Route

The route up from the west saddle is a straightforward clamber over boulders up a uniform slope for ½ hour. As you approach the top you meet a small glacier which is quite steep and may have the remnants of a cornice on it. This small glacier is avoided by going onto the steeper ground to the south of it.

Store Rauddalstind full size mapThe difficulty of this route lies in getting to the west saddle. The easiest way is over the mountain of Vestre Rauddalstind and this is described on the Vestre Rauddalstind page. The other option is up the crevassed Kristenbreen glacier, but this is for experienced parties only as it is a very broken and crevassed glacier.

To ascend Kristenbreen glacier leave Leirvassbu lodge and follow the path Ra.1 for 6 km down the locked track. When Simledalen valley joins Greendale valley leave this track and cross the Storutla river above its confluence with the Simledøla river which flows out of Simledalen valley. The Storutla river may have to be waded.

Force a way through the willow scrub and then cross the easier Simledøla river to its south bank and head up the hillside for 2 km to the bottom of Kristenbreen glacier. Head south to the easternmost of the two snouts of the glacier and rope up here.

Ascend the glacier heading up along the lower edge to climb above an large outcrop at the base. Then head up the middle of the glacier passing a rock ridge to reach the higher reaches of the glacier. Pick a route through the crevasses aiming for the saddle or a point to the east of this saddle. Allow 7-8 hours from Leirvassbu lodge.

Store Rauddalstind on the left with Vestre Rauddalstind in the right seen from the northEast Saddle Route

The main route up from the east saddle is described below but there is a variation which goes up the ridge between the Kristenbreen and Alvbreen glaciers.

Follow the route described above for the ascent up Kristenbreen glacier instead of heading for the eastern snout continue east for another km beyond the crags at the foot of the ridge to the east of this glacier. It is easy to start up the ridge here.

As you ascend the bare rock up this ridge then Alvbreen glacier to the east of the ridge appears. Continue up the narrowing ridge as it becomes more squeezed between the two glaciers into a narrow strip of rock and becomes considerably steeper. Towards the top of the ridge where it meets the main bulk of Store Rauddalstind the ridge gets still steeper and may be blocked by a large steep and often corniced snowdrift, especially in the spring and early summer. This make this final section of the ridge virtually impenetrable and it is necessary to go onto the upper reaches of the Alvbreen glacier to avoid it.

Traverse across this crevassed glacier to the flat section on the east ridge which can then be followed to the summit. If this ridge between Alvbreen and Kristenbreen glaciers is attempted it is essential to take the necessary equipment to cross the small, but crevassed, section of Alvbreen glacier otherwise the attempt is likely to be unsuccessful and you must retreat to back to Simledalen valley and try the preferred route up to the east saddle and east ridge. Allow 7-8 hours from Leirvassbu lodge.