Slettmark Mesmog Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasSlettmark Mesmog MassifSvartdalspiggen › Alternative Routes

There two routes up Svartdalspiggen

  • The north ridge from Gjendebu lodge via the steep lip at the northern end of Svartdalen and the subsidary peak of Nørdre Svartdalspiggen. This is the simplest ascent and I have described this on the main page as the preferred route.
  • The south ridge over the subsidary peaks of Søre Svartdalspiggen and Midtre Svartdalspiggen from Langedalen which can have either Gjendebu or Torfinnsbu lodges as the starting point. This route is more demanding and involves a few obstacles and some scrambling.

The South Ridge

Svartdalspiggen full size mapLeave Torfinnsbu lodge and follow the route Sl.3 west along Bygdin and then up north to Nedre Langedalstjernet, 1513m. Pass on the east side of this lake and then climb up to Øvre Langedalstjernet, 1673m. Pass this lake on either the west side if large snowdrifts and ice remain in the early summer at the foot of crags which drop straight into the lake at the northern end or on the east side along the boulders at waters edge sneaking under crags again on the northern side. From the north west corner of this lake clamber up steepish loose ground for 15 minutes to gain the saddle.

If coming from Gjendebu up Langedalen follow the marked path Ra.3 for 2 km until the river from Langedalen joins the Vesleåe river. If you are lucky jump otherwise wade the Vesleåe river upstream of where this tributary enters. Once over bash through the birch forest on the west bank of the Langedalen river and then climb steeply through scrub on a faint path for a good ½ hour until you enter the valley. Head up this increasing boulder strewn valley for 2 km crossing the river to the east side until you reach the spreading snount of the Langedalebreen glacier. Clamber across boulders for another 2 km on the eastern edge of the glacier until you reach the saddle at Langedalsbandet.

At the saddle leave this route and start to head up the steep south west ridge of Søre Svartdalspiggen. This ridge is composed of mixed slab and vegetation and is formed into large steps. It will be necessary to thread and weave a route up through the steeper sections of 45 degree slabs keeping on the steep vegetation as you ascend the steps. It is best to keep slightly to the north of the apex of the ridge and avoid the much steeper east side. The descent of this ridge could present some difficulties, especially if it is wet. After an hour climbing the ridge you should reach the top of Søre Svartdalspiggen which is about 4 hours from either lodge.

Store Svartdalspiggen from the eastFrom the top of Søre Svartdalspiggen, Langedalstind is easily accessible to the east. Store Svartdalspiggen, however lies along the ridge to the north. Initially the route north is quite easy descending the rounded ridge to a shallow saddle and then ascending up the stone ridge to Midtre Svartdalspiggen which is reached within ½ hour. After Midtre Svartdalspiggen continue north along the ridge descending a tricky slab which can be avoided on the west side before dropping down to another saddle.

The ridge continues north ascending for an easy ½ km. However, from here the south ridge of Store Svartdalspiggen looms above and to continue up it involves climbing one of two chimneys located just to the west of the ridge crest. Each chimney is grade IV, but only for a short pitch (25m). From the top of these chimneys there is a further easy 40 metre scramble to the summit itself. The grade IV chimneys can be avoided by traversing across the steep scree to the west. This traverse is about 300 metres long, passing under the steep buttress before starting to climb up a scree filled gully onto the main ridge about 200 metres south of the summit. From here it is simple to follow the north ridge southwards for the 200 metres to the summit.

Return options

The descent is by the same, or preferably, by descending down the ascent route from Gjendebu described below. It is also possible, but perhaps not desirable, to descend down the scree and stones of the west flank of Store Svartdalspiggen into Langedalen. This unpleasant steep descent is best commenced 200 metres to the north of the summit. Once in Langedalen follow Sl.3 south to Torfinnsbu lodge or north to Gjendebu lodge.

For parties wanting an even more challenging traverse of this entire complex ridge there is a classic traverse from Torfinnsbu lodge. Initially climb Østre Torfinnstind and Midtre Torfinnstind then turn north to Kvitskardstind. From here the traverse continues to Mesmogtind and Langedalstind and then to Søre Svartdalspiggen from where it continues as described above down to Gjendebu lodge. This traverse takes about 24-30 hours and its various sections are described on the mountain pages named above.