Slettmark Mesmog Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasSlettmark Mesmog MassifMidtre Torfinnstind › Associated Peaks

6.11 Vestre Torfinnstind 2085m

Vestre Torfinnstind, 2085m, is the westernmost of the three Torfinntinds. It is only a secondary peak, but a very fine one. Vestre Torfinnstind can either be climbed via the east ridge from the saddle with Midtre Torfinnstind; which would probably be as the latter stage of the east-west traverse of the Torfinnstind traverse. Alternatively it can be climbed via the west ridge which I have described in reverse as it is more likely that it is a descent route.

The East Ridge

From the cleft in the saddle between Midtre and Vestre Torfinnstind the East Ridge is relatively simple. Initially climb out of the cleft via the shelf to the south for 10 metres to a small shoulder. From this small shoulder climb up the loose arête to an obvious shelf on the south side, which is quite short. Follow the shelf and then start a more difficult scrambling section of grade II for 20 metres to gain the main arête. Once on the arête it is easy to follow it westwards for 150 metres to the summit of Vestre Torfinnstind.

The West Ridge descent

Looking east towards Vestre Torfinnstind from LangedalenFrom the top of Vestre Torfinnstind continue the traverse westwards down the easy west ridge. After about 200 metres the ridge narrows to a very exposed arête for 7 metres. The worst section of this arête is best avoided slightly on the south side as some of the blocks which make up the crest are loose. From here head down to the small lake near the knoll marked as 1766 m. Then descend the steep grassy slopes just a little to the south-east of the main river that descends out of this bowl from the lake. Do not be tempted to take a short cut and descend the slopes closer to Vestre Torfinnstind as these slopes are steep and slippery.

At the bottom of this steeper slope head straight down to the river in the bottom of the valley where there is the unmarked but obvious path Sl.3. The path runs about 200 metres to the east of the Langedalsåne river. Once on it follow it down for 2 km until it meets the marked path Sl.1 which is then followed east for a long 2 km to reach Torfinnsbu lodge. Allow 11 hours for the entire traverse starting and returning to Torfinnsbu lodge.