Galdh°piggen Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasGaldhøpiggen Massif › 10.13 Tverrbytthornet (2102m)

Tverrbytthornet, 2102M, lies at the southern tip of the Galdhøpiggen massif. It is a sharp pointed outlier to the main massif which compliments Kyrkja across the valley nicely. The ridge connecting it to Tverrbotntindane is not as straight forward as some suggest and if heading east involves a 15 metre very difficult climb or a long, difficult and tedious traverse on the south side of the ridge to avoid. If heading west this step can be abseiled.

The Route from Leirvassbu Cabin
total distance for return trip12km   
total ascent and descent750m   
total time for return journey 5-7hrs
difficulty rating - 5season: jul, aug, septno skiingno glacier crossingno climbingsuitable for wet conditions

From Leirvassbu take the Spiterstulen path round the north side of Leirvatnet lake and continue for 3 km into Kyrkjeglupen. Here at the Lake 1460m leave the path and head directly north. This should take you slightly to the west of the south ridge and its 2 bands of dark cliffs.

The first half of the climb is of a moderate gradient across stone and grass for ½ km while 300m are ascended. There is a path up but it is hardly discernable and it is probably better to follow your own route. Eventually this 300m of ascent should bring you level with the top of the second band of dark cliffs on the south ridge. There is a grassy plateau on the top of these cliffs and the route now heads over onto this plateau.

From this plateau looking north towards the summit you should see a small buttress about halfway up. This buttress can also be seen from Leirvassbu as a small nipple halfway between the plateau and the summit. The route now makes for this buttress and passes it on the east and continues up to the main east-west summit ridge. The route up this ½km stretch, with 400m of ascent is not pleasant. The gradient is at least 40 degrees, the scree is very large and rough. In addition the rocks are not very stable and are covered in black lichen and slippery when wet and the path is all but non-existent.

Eventually the scree ends and the summit ridge is reached. You should be at the top of the glacier on the north face. From here it is a short and interesting journey to the summit itself eastwards along the ridge.

The descent is by the same route, or by the glacier on the north side and adding an extra 5 km to the walk home. Alternatively I could recommend that the summit ridge is now followed westwards past a couple of scrambling sections and the abseil to the main saddle between Tverrbytthornet and Tverrbotntindane. From this saddle it is possible to go along the ridge to the mountain of Store Tverrbotntindane, 2161m. The descent from the main saddle to Kyrkjeglupen is also down over large, unstable, 40 degree scree so is not advised and the descent down Leirløyfti is preferred.