Memuru Veo Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasMemuru Veo Massif › 11.7 Søre Veotind (2267m)

Søre Veotind, 2267m, is the highest point in a complex of three ridges which meet at the summit. Along two of these three ridges there are further peaks, some much more alpine in nature that Søre Veotind itself. None-the-less an ascent of Søre Veotind will usually involve a glacier crossing making an interesting a varied day.

The Route from Glitterheim Lodge
total distance for return trip21km   
total ascent and descent1010m   
total time for return journey 7-8hrs
difficulty rating - 6season: mar, apr, may, jul, aug, septskiingglacier crossingno climbingsuitable for wet conditions

From Glitterheim follow the marked path up Veodalen towards Spiterstulen for about four km, until the river in the valley becomes very braided and it is possible to ford it easily. After wet weather this fording might be difficult and it is always very cold. Once over the river Veo continue south and head up the steep boulders to which leads up to the small saddle between Styggehøe and point 1810m. This ascent is quite arduous and some of the boulders loose, so care must be taken. Once of the Glitterheim-Spiterstulen path the route is not marked.

Søre Veotind seen from Nautgardsoksle to the eastOnce at the top of this slope veer west round the south side of point 1810m across scree (to avoid dropping into a small moraine filled valley) and contour round the hillside for one km to the edge of the main arm of the Styggehøbrean glacier just to the east of point 1882m. The glacier here lies under a very crevassed area and it is necessary to traverse up across the slope in a southerly direction to reach the south side to avoid this obstacle. Even on this traverse glacial experience and equipment are necessary. Once on the south side of the glacier follow its southern edge up a steeper section, past a couple of moraine piles on the glaciers' edge until the gradient eases again.

The route now veers away from the southern edge of the glacier towards the middle but still keeps ½ km north west of the ridge which descends eastwards from the knoll marked 2067metres. Continue south west across the relative flat glacier and pass ½ km to the north west of the buttress at the bottom of Søraustre Styggehøbreatind. Once under the buttress veer west crossing the icy bowl which grinds away under the jagged ridges and sheer faces of Sørvestre Styggehøbreatind and head directly for the Styggehøbreskardet saddle one km away. As you approach the saddle the gradient increases and the final hundred metres are quite steep. There may be a bergschrund exposed here during the summer time just before the pass is reached.

To the south of Søre Veotind are the peaks of Søraustre (left) and Sørvestre (right) StyggehøbreatindFrom the saddle there is a simple ridge walk up a gentle ridge covered in stable scree to the summit. This distance is less than a km and takes only 15 minutes. During the spring there are big cornices on the west side of the ridge and a respectful distance should be maintained especially in poor visibility. On the north side of the summit there is a overhanging drop on the north ridge to be wary of also. From this vantage point there is a unsurpassed view over this north eastern part of Jotunheimen and especially along the three ridges that radiate from the summit with three glacier filled valley between each ridge.

The return is by the same route. Alternatively it is possible to descend to Memurubu lodge by descending the ascent route as described under the alternative route section.

During the winter/spring season the route does not follow the route described above as the ascent up from the valley to the saddle between Styggehøe and knoll 1810m is too steep and given conditions could be an avalanche risk. The route instead crosses the river Veo immediately to the south of Glitterheim and then climbs diagonally up the hillside for four km to pass over the saddle between Styggehøe and vestre Hestlægerhøe. The route then passes round the south side of Styggehøe descending diagonally to the two small lakes to the south west of Styggehøe marked as 1632m. From these lakes the route heads west to the bottom of the glacier and then follows it southern edge up to the steeper section where the moraine piles intrude into the glacier. After this steeper section the glacier flattens out and the summer route described above is intersected and followed. During the spring the whole of the winter route is marked from Glitterheim lodge to Styggehøbreskardet saddle, and then continues on to Memurubu lodge, making it very easy to follow and making the glacier section considerably safer.

This winter route can also be followed in the summer and there are cairns from the south side of the River Veo up to the saddle and the round the south side of Styggehøe to the lakes to indicate the route. Much of this route is plagued with boulder fields especially to the south of Styggehøe.