Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter
Austre Holåtind, 2043m, is also sometimes called Tussetind. Tussetind was the name given to it by one of the first ascent team, Arentz to honour another member of the team, the eminent and pioneering lady climber and teacher Therese Bertheau. Austre Holåtind is the easterly of the three Holåtinds. The entire north side of the mountain is covered in the huge linked Gjelåbreen and Holåbreen glaciers. However the south side of the mountain is glacier free.
|The Route from Trulsbu Cabin|
Leave Trulsbu cabin and head west up Vesldalen across the flats, keeping on the north side of the stream. After about 1 km start to climb up for a further one km until you are on the massive boulder filled plateau about one km to the north of Lake 1431m. From here head north across the boulders to reach the flanks of the south east ridge veering east as the gradient steepens. After a bit over ½ hour the main south east ridge should be gained. Once on the ridge it is a straight forward climb up to the summit.
The return is by the same route, unless you are traversing all three Holåtinds. Alternatively it is also possible to return down the west ridge of Austre Holåtind, which if done in conjunction with an ascent up the east ridge of Midtre Holåtind makes a very neat traverse of Austre and Midtre Holåtind respectively. To descend this west ridge simply follow it for ½ km until it levels out at the saddle with Midtre Holåtind, which can now be ascended or you can return to Trulsbu cabin from here. For more details on either option, refer to the Midtre Holåtind page.