Knutshols Tjønnhols Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasKnutshols Tjønnhols Massif › 8.3 Austre Leirungstind (2288m)

Austre Leirungstind, 2288m, is the southern and highest point on a ridge which stretches down the entire eastern side of the awesome Knutsholet corrie. It is not as alpine as its neighbours but still boasts some spectacular walls and steep ridges.

The Route from Torfinnsbu
total distance for return trip20km   
total ascent and descent1300m   
total time for return journey 8-10hrs
difficulty rating - 5season: mar, apr, may, jul, aug, septpartial/difficult skiingno glacier crossingno climbingsuitable for wet conditions

Leave Torfinnsbu and follow the well marked path up Torfinnsdalen for six km towards Gjendebu lodge. This path climbs steadily for two km, then levels for two km, the follows the east side of the Nedre Svartdalsvatnet lake, 1475m, for two km. Here the route leaves this path and makes a short steep ascent up to Svartdalsbandet to the east for 200 vertical metres to reach Øvre Leirungstjønnin lake 1678m. Cross to the south side of the lake at the outflow, easily hopping over the small stream.

Vestre and Austre Leirungstind seen from Austre Torfinnstind to the southFrom the lake head north east across a wide expanse of packed gravel for an easy km until the easy terrain start to steepen. Continue north west diagonally up the slope now largely composed of scree for another ½ km crossing a stream that tumbles down from the glacier above.

Cross the stream and follow its east bank up for a 300 m in a northerly direction, until the gradient eases and you reach a pleasant plateau. On the plateau revert back to a north east bearing and after a 300 m you should reach the eastern edge of the glacier descending to the south of the saddle between the two Leirungstind mountains.

Follow the eastern edge of this glacier directly up the slope for 300 m across the unstable moraine, or preferably, if the glacier is not too icy, up its eastern edge, which is crevasse free. Once you have reached the top of the glacier continue north straight up the slope for another 300 m to reach the crest of the south east ridge and the south edge of the Skarvflyløyftbrean.

VThe final section of the south east ridge up Austre Leirungstind involves some easy scramblingDo not go onto this glacier but turn north west and follow the crest of the ridge for 400m metres along easy interesting terrain until the crest of the ridge steepens considerably (to about 40 degrees) and veers north. This steeper ridge is now followed 400 m to the top. This ridge has some easy scrambling sections and as a bonus there as spectacular views towards the sheer wall on the east face.

The descent is by the same route. It is also feasible to reverse the alternative ascent route above but this will involve an ascent of Tjønnholsoksle as well and the return to Torfinnsbu will be very long indeed. Consequently it is only really viable if one is camping at Nedre Leirungstjønnin.