Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter
Areas › Slettmark Mesmog Massif › 6.2 Langedalstind (2206m)
Langedalstind, 2206m, is a alpine peak which lies on the jagged ridge to the west of Svartdalen which stretches from Torfinnstind to Svartdalspiggen. Langedalstind lies just to the north of the midway point on this ridge and to the south of the Svartdalspiggen peaks. There are three ridges which lead up to the summit; the west ridge and the east ridge, each bordering a steep glacier covering the entire north face, and the steep south ridge.
|The Route from Torfinnsbu Lodge|
From Torfinnsbu lodge head west along Bygdin, under the imposing crags of Torfinnstind, on the path Sl.1 to Fondsbu lodge. This boggy and scrub filled path leads past the hut at Nybue and then crosses the Langedalsåne river over a bridge some 3 km from Torfinnsbu lodge.
From the outflow head up the easy gentle slope across moss and alpine flower meadows to the glacier two km northeast of the lakes outflow. After ½ hour you pass to the west of small lake and veer to the north and skirt round the west side of a large moraine pile. As you skirt round this moraine pile veer east again until you reach the glacier and then make for the saddle.
The glacier has retreated considerably since the map data was compiled and is now without crevasses across its entire western area. The final section of the route up to the glacier is reasonably steep and if the blue ice of the glacier is exposed will require crampons to ascend.
South face traverse
From the saddle the lower half of the south east ridge up Mesmogtind is an interesting clamber over outcrops with the occasional easy scramble. About halfway up there is a small knoll and a flatter section covered in scree. Above here it is challenging climbing up to grade V. Instead of tackling this, the route now traverses across the south face of Mesmogtind to the saddle with Langedalstind.
This traverse is across a 40 degree snowfield until after mid summer when it is steep scree and outcrops for ½ km. An ice axe is essential as there is a rock band below the snowfield. During the traverse slowly gain height as you make a direct route for the saddle. As you approach the saddle the slope eases slightly and it is quite easy to clamber up onto this saddle on the arete between the mountains.
From the saddle there is 100 metres of ascent over the ½ km to the summit. Initially the gradient is very gentle and the going very pleasant, with spectacular views. After a 100 metres there is a small 5 metre crag, which can be scrambled up or is avoided on the south side. After the crag the gradient increases but is still easy for another 200 metres across bare rock and rounded slabs until it reaches the base of the first 15 metre crag.
This crag is steep and offers some interesting grade II scrambling but is easily avoided on the south side. After passing under the crag do not head back onto the ridge as this takes you to the bottom of a much more difficult 15 metre crag. Instead continue traversing up across the boulders of the south east face passing under the second crag also. Once past the second crag start to head up the boulders to the base of the rocky ridge. Scramble up one of the numerous 15 metre high grade II gullies to reach the edge of the small summit plateau from where you can saunter over to the summit and cairn.
Return by the same route. Alternatively descend the west ridge to the saddle with the small peak of Søre Svartdalspiggen. From here it is possible to return to Langedalen by two steep routes. One route from this saddle is down the steep slope to Øvre Langedalstjernet is fraught with difficulty, especially in the wet, and it is probably only best to descend it if you have climbed it. The other route over Søre Svartdalspiggen is also steep and in the wet could also be difficult. Both of these alternatives to Langedalen are described on the alternative routes page. Instead of returning down to Langedalen it is also possible to continue also the ridge to Svartdalspiggen which would extend the duration considerably especially if returning to Torfinnsbu lodge.