Store-SkagastølstindScandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter
Areas › Stølsnos Massif › Falketind › Alternative Routes
The most straightforward way up Falketind is via Morka-Koldedalen valley and up the slabs north of Andrevatnet lake as described below in the main section.
There is another route which is the first ascent route, the so-called Pionerruta.
The Pionerruta
The alternative route up Falketind is a classic; the 'Pionerruta'. It follows the 1820 first ascent route up Falketind to the saddle between Falketind and Østre Stølsnostind. This route once neglected seems to be gaining in popularity over the last years. This route also involves a glacier crossing.
Leave the private cabin at Koldedalshytte and head north west up a slope to Falkbreen. Ascend up the middle of this glacier to the base of the wall meeting it to the north of the lowest point of the wall above.
This start point is up a snow fan above 2 rock bands which lie further north. Start to ascend the 3 pitches of a 150m exposed scramble here initially bearing north as you ascend. There are often threatening cornices along the top of the wall in the early summer.
Once you have gained the top of the wall follow it south to reach the foot of the north ridge which is easily scrambled up.
Due to the risk of avalanche in Morka-Koldedalen in the winter and potential avalanches or collapsing cornices down the east face neither route described is recommended in the winter or spring.