Memuru Veo Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasMemuru Veo MassifStore Memurutind › Alternative Routes

There is no easy way up Store Memurutind. The two options are up the north west ridge and then along the adrenalin filled arête or a long glacier crossing with numerous crevasses to get to Memuru skard (saddle), from where the steep east ridge can be followed. I have described the former in detail as it is the only on which is feasible without a major glacier crossing and on ones own, albeit by experienced mountaineers only. The route from Memuru skard I shall describe briefly below:

The journey to Memuru skard is long north and south alike. From Memurubu Lodge it is 13 km up the Muru river to the glacial lake at the snout of the Austre Memurubreen glacier. From this lake it is a further 3 km across the crevassed glacier to base of a short, but messy, 35 degree climb on ice followed by loose scree up to the saddle. From Glitterheim it is six km up the Veo river to the snout of the Veobrean glacier. From the snout it is a further five km across the heavily crevassed Veobreen glacier to the saddle which is not as steep as the south side but has snow covered crevasses even late in the summer season. From the saddle the steep east ridge rises threateningly. The direct approach up the apex involves some scrambling among steep boulders some of which are unstable. It is better to make a rising traverse to the west on the south side across a couple of loose scree runs until it is feasible to climb up and double back onto the main ridge above the steep boulders. Once on the east ridge again it can be followed to the top. The saddle can also be approached from the steep west ridge of Austre Memurutind 2301m, but this involves a 20m abseil just above the half way point, while keeping to the apex of this west ridge. While it is easier to get to the Memuru skard saddle in the spring, the climb up the east ridge is both steep and prone to avalanche and should be avoided.