Memuru Veo Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasMemuru Veo MassifStore Heillstugutind › Alternative Routes

The Heillstugutindane ridge is some 4 km in length and this narrows considerably in some areas to give some very airy scrambling and is justifiably a classic but this traverse does involve some unavoidable some climbing for 2 pitches just to the north of Store Heillstugutinden. The two nunataks on the western edge of the Heillstugubreen Glacier are easily climbed from the glacier but this involves substantial glacier travel across crevassed areas to reach the base of these nunataks. For almost the entire length of the ridge it is possible to drop off the west side into Urdadalen valley down steep and often unstable scree where care is essential.

The only route up Store Heillstugutinden without encountering major problems is from Urdadalen Valley at its highest point by Urdadalsbandet pass. This pass can be reached from Gjendebu Cabin in 4 ½ hours, Leirvassbu Lodge in about 3 ½ hours and Spiterstulen Lodge in about 3 hours. It makes sense therefore to start at Spiterstulen Lodge which is also the most accessible of the three starting points.