Rauddalen Area

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasRauddalen AreaStore Rauddalseggi › Alternative Routes

Rauddalseggi is a long and narrow ridge running in an east west direction with two mountains, Store Rauddalseggi and Midtre Rauddalseggi, towards each end of the ridge.

To gain this ridge from the west or east arêtes involves climbing, some of it up to grade IV. The whole of the south flank of Rauddalseggi ridge inaccessible and is composed of a series of steep ramparts of slabs, scree and occasional turf.

Between the two twin peaks of Store Rauddalseggi is a narrow arâte with an airy sectionOn the north side of Rauddalseggi ridge are four small glaciers which have carved into the main ridge to create saddles and glacial bowls. Between these bowls are three broad and sometimes steep spurs.

It is up the middle of these three spurs on the north side, where the easiest route onto this main grand ridge is found which leads up to the mountain of Midtre Rauddalseggi.

This is the route I have describedin the main section from Olavsbu cabin. The alternatives I have described here and on the Midtre Rauddalseggi page are up the steep arêtes on the west and east end of the main Rauddalseggi ridge.

West Ridge Route

The west ridge route also starts at Olavsbu cabin and heads north initially for a km on the path Ra.8 to Leirvassbu lodge. This take you to the foot of the west ridge.

Leave the path here and start to head east up the prominent ridge across stones and turf. As you ascend the ridge boulder become more prolific as you reach a small crag.

Store Rauddalseggi full size mapScramble up this crag keeping to the south side where it is not so exposed for 10 metres. There is then a short clamber to another 10 metre scramble up a second crag. Again the south side is easier and less exposed.

From here is a short, and sometimes airy, clamber over boulders and blocks to the foot of the climb. The initial 5 metres are the crux of this climb and are a grade IV. Thereafter there are another 70 metres of scrambling with a few grade III sections to reach the top of the ridge. It seems to be easier to tackle these more demanding section on the south side of the ridge. Belay points are plentiful on this 70 metre ascent.

When you reach the summit ridge continue up to the west top. From here there is a 150 metre walk to the slightly higher east summit. Just before this summit there is a narrow and somewhat loose notch of iron rich rock.

From the north west, Store Rauddalseggi is particularly impressiveThe return is by the ascent route described below in the main section. Allow 6-8 hours return to Olavsbu cabin.

East Arête Route

The route up the east arête of Rauddalseggi starts at the very east end of this massif. It is also possible to start this traverse, or indeed the ascent of Midtre Rauddalseggi via its north ridge from Gjendebu lodge. This is a longer day.

See the alternative routes section on the Midtre Rauddalseggi page for more details.