Knutshols Tjønnhols Massif

Scandinavian Mountains over 2000 metres - James Baxter

AreasKnutshols Tjønnhols MassifAustre Leirungstind › Associated Peaks

8.6 Skarvflyløyfttind 2250m

Skarvflyløyfttind, 2250m, is easily climbed from Austre Leirungstind by descending the steep slabs down the north ridge and then veering ½ km north east along a broad arête to a final 1 km scree plateau leading to the top. It is also possible to scramble up the steep north ridge from the saddle with Søre Skarvflytind. This saddle is best reached from Leirungsdalen via Tjønnholsoksle, then crossing the very southern part of the Skarvflybrean glacier. See the alternative route above for more details.


8.8 Søre Skarvflytind 2210m

Søre Skarvflytind, 2211m, can be ascended most easily from the south via the saddle with Skarvflyløyfttind (for access to the saddle see peak 6.6). It can also be ascended via the north ridge from the saddle with Midtre Skarvflytind. This north ridge is however very exposed in places. This saddle is also best gained initially via Tjønnholsoksle. From its top descend north west and then ascend the steep moraine ridge splitting the north and south Skarvflybrean glaciers.


8.12 Midtre Skarvflytind 2154m

Midtre Skarvflytind, 2154m, is most easily ascended via the north ridge from the saddle with Nørdre Skarvflytind. Getting to the saddle however involves a long day. It can either be gained from Gjendebu via a 5 km bushwhack to Knutsholet and then clambering up 500 metres of steep scree or from the saddle with Søre Skarvflytind (for access see peak 6.8). From this latter saddle drop down the scree on the west side for at least 200 vertical metres into Knutsholet and traverse across boulders along the south flank south Midtre Skarvflytind for a good km before climbing up steep scree to gain the saddle on the north side of the peak. It is also possible to head straight from the saddle with Søre Skarvflytind up the south ridge but this involves an exposed 50m pitch at grade IV.